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Anatomy meets Art- Leonardo Da Vinci

5/19/2015

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Of all the scientists, I find Leonardo Da Vinci to be the most intriguing.He was an amazing genius and  wore numerous hats- was an artist, engineer, architect, anatomist, cartographer, geologist, writer, mathematician, poet, inventor, clothes designer among other things. A legend even in his own times, he unified the arts with the sciences. He strived to reach the core of his every pursuit and realize all his abilities and potentials.So amazing were his talents that he was accused of witch craft and his contemporaries saw him as a wizard .

Leonardo's futuristic inventions such as contact lenses and a writing instrument that resembles a modern day fountain pen are still with us in our everyday lives. He was indeed the quintessential Renaissance man, the one who represents the renascence, rebirth, of the arts, of science and of reason over superstitions. I got an opportunity to see his amazing works and discoveries at the Milan Science Museum.

When drawing the birds, he thought about the trajectories and the flight of the bird. He was a meticulous observer of nature. According to him the human body is a perfect machine, with a perfect architecture. When he drew a human body he showed "tendon or muscle is the cause of each movement" in his drawing. Leonardo's interest in proportions was sparked by writings of Vitruvius which provide a systematic examination of Roman engineering and architectural methods that were used in city planning,  temple architecture , in pneumatics, waterworks and drainage.

But it is the iconic drawing of the "Vitruvian Man" that tells about the proportions of the human body. In his study of living models and corpses he applied the core of his knowledge and created illustrations of human anatomy that are uncannily accurate, except for the female reproductive system . Anatomists during Leonardo's time often dissected unclaimed bodies, such as of vagrants or drunks who were more likely to be males.

Leonardo was the first to draw the human spine with the correct curves. He was also a first to draw a fetus in-utero.Today anatomy revolves and engages new imaging techniques such as magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) that allows surgeons to view every detail for diagnosis and for operating.

Micro-anatomy, the study of anatomy at microscopic level is an area that was not yet there for Leonardo during his time. He however anticipated advances that would come only in the last several decade. His baby-in-utero drawing foresee the modern ultrasound techniques. His drawings of the anatomy of the shoulder look like modern 3D visualization.

He believed in his belief system and his own experiences. He saw and recorded what he perceived for the rest of the humanity hundreds of years ahead of his time. A wandering scientist with a pen ( that he designed ) with which he wrote everything in reverse, even his signature, that drew the future. He was an enigma . My big salute to this master genius.

Some fun facts about Da Vinci

- He was an ambidextrous,  paranoid dyslexic.  He could draw forward with one hand while writing backwards with the other producing a mirror image script that was laterally inverted. Others found it extremely difficult to read, which was exactly the point.

- Researchers at The University of Amsterdam and the University of Illinois used the face- recognition software to determine that Mona Lisa is 83% happy, 9% disgusted, 6% fearful and 2% angry.

- Leonardo was the first to prove why the sky is blue. (It's because of the way air scatters light).

- Bill Gates bought  Leonardo's Codex Leicester in 1995 for $ 30 million. This manuscript,  the only one not held in Europe, includes da Vinci's studies on hydraulics and the movement of water. Few pages out of it were used as screen savers on Windows 95.

- Leonardo de Caprio's name is Leonardo because his mother was standing in front of a Leonardo Da Vinci's potrait when he first kicked.

- In one of his drawings the uterus is wrong. In his drawing the uterus is as we would see in animals such as cows. Since it was difficult to procure female corpses,  Leonardo used the knowledge that he had gained from dissecting animals to help him understand the human body.
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Milan- Fashion and Design

5/18/2015

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  I wanted to check out  La Rinascente, a department store, walking distance from the Duomo. First floor was all about makeup. All cosmetic companies are here to give you a make over. Next four floors were designer clothes, shoes and accessories. You name a brand and you have it here. On the top floor are the restaurants and coffee shops. The basement was all sorts of miscellaneous stuff.The place is crazy pretty and if you appreciate design it is here you can get some European and Italian designers such as Alessi, Fritz Hansen, B&B Italia, Georg Jensen, Bodum and Kartell.Their products are all over in a supermarket setting, so no pushy salespeople to harass you. I got to oogle and drool at all sorts of pretty stuff. My favorite section was the housewares.  There is teaware inspired by the Japanese rock garden sand formation.There were really clever designs like a sharkfin soup bowl, paperbag vases, funky dome shaped jars with teaware in it. Variety of cups and plates and funky appliances. This place made me as "happy" as a bull in a china shop!!

In the furniture section was a nail-less constructed stools that were put together by a technique of grid locking. I am a sucker for such unique things and my mind was racing as to what all and how much I could lug back home. Check out the pics for all the cool stuff here.

I realized the term " Made in Italy " is certainly associated with beautifully crafted, well made, Italian design , quality, creativity, originality and style which has certainly established Italy as a premier design and manufacturing country in the world.

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More Gaudi

5/17/2015

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Casa Batllo is another one of Gaudi's masterpieces. It is a casa ( home) which is magical and more than a building. It is actually a legend of art.The striking modernistic facade has a whole world full of surprises, both artistic and architectural . Gaudi is constantly having a dialogue between architecture and nature.

Casa Batllo was built for a wealthy Barcelona aristocrat. It is imaginative and unconventional. The roof is in the shape of a dragon with an armored back of iridescent scales. The spine forms the ornamental top and the colors on it change as you move from one end of the roof to another.

The facade of the building has no straight lines. It's like it is made of bones ( as supporting pillars) and eye sockets of the skull ( as balconies). I saw anatomy in a different light. Even the building seemed organic , it had life. It is covered by leaf vines. The facade tells a story- Monet's waterlilies, carnival scene with masks and bone flag poles, confetti showers and a dragon to be slayed by a warrior. You take as much time admiring and interpreting the outside of it as you would the inside of it.

Inside the house , the banisters are carved of fine hardwood, in the shape of a spine of a huge animal,. The fire place is shaped like a mushroom, oak doors have organic shapes with fancy twined handles and honeycomb shaped peepholes, ceiling is scaly or wavy evoking a ripple effect as in a sea.

In the loft are the laundry and the storage rooms. There is even a room for the priest to come and stay with the family. Throughout the house the passageways are painted white and are arched. You will feel as if you are walking through the ribcage of a giant whale. The building epitomizes form and functionality, as in anatomy and physiology. The complimentarity is amazing. There is an element of purity as art combines with function .

Gaudi's house has a magical characteristics of nudging at you. His creativity and design challenges you to ask questions and to think how Antoni Gaudi was able to synthesize and process the natural world and present such an extraordinary masterpiece for us to behold.

Park Guell - Has amazing mosaic stone structures, Gaudi's dragon fountain at the entrance and a huge lizard, with which every body wanted a picture. The walkways are supported by twisting rock columns that seem to be growing out of the soil. They appear natural and organic. On the roof of the Guell park is a terraced area where from you get a magnificent view of the city.There are multicolored mosaic tiled benches to sit upon.
On the park is also Gaudi's home which is now a museum that has his bedroom, prayer room . His personal belongings are on display along with some furniture he has designed.
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Barcelona and Gaudi

5/17/2015

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Barcelona is a timeless Mediterranean city. It is a perfect tourist city on a face value because of it's unique architecture, rich history, lovely beaches, mouthwatering food and a vibrant culture. And, beyond the travel brochure, Barcelona has a spirit and energy that is addictive and compelling.

Sagrada Familia - Gaudi's crowning glory
This cathedral,  well it actually is a church , is Antoni Gaudi's finest masterpiece and is still under construction since it started in  1882. Mostly cathedrals have taken over hundred years to build. This one is supposedly reaching completion in 2026 ( also Gaudi's 100th anniversary) which is comparatively I would say is quicker on historic cathedral building standards. It is so unique that there is nothing like it in this world. It is impressive, it is whacky, it is " Oh- my - God". I was totally dumbfounded by it's intricacy. The  only expression that came out of me was " WOW". Over 8000 people can worship inside this church.On the day I was there it was busy like a Walmart on a Black Friday! Just so you know,  the four artists who have made a lasting impression on the city of Barcelona are Gaudi, Miro, Picasso and Dali.

As I was standing and looking up the exterior of this fascinating church I realized why Gaudi is considered the Father of Modernista architecture movement. From outside this church looks like a super supersized sandcastle as in a fairy tale. Gaudi's works adorn the city. His inspirations from nature is very obvious in his work. Gaudi grew up in the countryside in southern Catalonia, amidst and around natural beauty. As a youngster he suffered from bouts of rheumatism that kept him from playing with other kids . So his mother took him for long nature walks. Hence, he used nature as his muse throughout his creations. At Sagrada Familia the trees in the main nave are a good example. You feel as if you have entered an enchanting forest. The trunks open up into a stone canopy. As I craned my neck up to look where the trees branch out a tingle ran down my spine. The ceiling is jaw dropping magnificent, as if blooming sunflowers are hanging upside down. Looking around , I noticed mineral forms on the capitals crowning the temple. Lots of wildlife- trees and plants and vines adorn the columns and the doors along with spirals like snails, amphibians and reptiles. Nature is definitely Gaudi's guiding aesthetics.

As you walk around you notice  the church is illuminated by blue, orange and pink hues from the stained- glass windows. The atmosphere is airy, bright, warm, serene , peaceful and full of prayers. The choir was softly singing on one side of the church.

If  for a minute you take the traditional church out of your mind you might think you are in a place of worship in some extraterrestrial region. Beyond doubt it is one of the most awesome sites in the world. It certainly symbolizes an uncompromising pursuit of perfection.

As your eye travels from the floor to the ceiling it seems as if Gaudi the artist, the designer , an architect is striving to unite the Earth with the Heavens.Using a magnolia leaf as inspiration,  he experimented with parabolic design, a method of building curves from straight lines. By 1915 Gaudi was studying geometry researching  hyperboloids and was once again tinkering with nature. The capitals of the column in the nave are modeled with  the scars that form when a tree branch is cut off, which creates transitions between the trunk and the branches of the trees. Gaudi adopted this growth pattern for the design of his columns using Oleander branches as his model.

For the exterior elements, Gaudi studied the crystallization of minerals such as pyrites, fluorite and galena. He incorporated these polyhedral forms into giant fruit cones, colored with Venetian ceramics that crown the Basilica towers.
During his lifetime Antoni Gaudi said that" The great book, always open and which we should make an effort to read, is that of nature". I left with a feeling as if I have read volumes. I left feeling inspired .
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Girona

5/16/2015

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This idyllic town is about an hour train ride from Barcelona.We stopped here on our way back from Figueres. As I was planning a visit here I found out that Girona's "Fleur de temps", a flower show, was scheduled that week. This was a 60th year of this event. On arriving at the station, a very friendly girl at the info desk explained that 126 flower arrangements were on display. She gave us directions to follow the grass footsteps to walk to the Old city and handed us a map with every exhibition numbered. This route is lined with fancy boutiques, art galleries, cozy cafe's, bakeries and restaurants. Before you realize it , window shopping can soon become your favorite activity.There was even a jester who was tumbling on a pole that ran across a street. It was  mechanized and life size and a little boy in a Superman suit was in control of it.

It was like a scavenger hunt as we discovered a new creation in a park, a church, on river Onyar, in Placas, on streets and alleys, on the hundred steps leading to a church, in the University compound, in the courtyard of a house, in a museum, hanging from the balconies, in the medieval porticos, along the ancient walls of the city. Passieg de la Muralla is the medieval wall that still surrounds much of the city.The entire town was buzzing with mostly tourists who were excitedly moving on from one arrangement to another. Every creation was unique, imaginative and beautiful. It was a delight to see flowers everywhere amongst the grey walls of a very ancient city where history is taken seriously here in the north east of Catalonia.Like so many other cities in Europe, this city has had its share of invaders, conquerors and rulers. It has survived some 25 sieges from Romans to French. Hence, you get to witness an impressive pile of cultural collisions.

Also visited the grand 18th century Cathedral de Santa Maria. It has a stairway with 90 steps leading to it against a gray facade that dominates the Girona skyline. Inside the church is an equally imposing single nave that is 72 feet wide, second only to that of St. Peter's in Rome. This place tells the story of Saint Narcis (Narcissm), the patron saint of Girona. The story goes that when the French invaders broke open his tomb they were swarmed and attacked by monster flies. That's why chocolate flies can be found in several traditional confectionery shops and Narcis as a name is quiet popular.

Outside on the street a chorus group sang some prayers. In a Placa a jazz group was performing to a cheering audience. A joie de viver prevailing in the atmosphere.

 The Jewish quarters have a museum encasing their history, housed in an elegant building with a stunning sunny patio, the museum is designed to show what a jewish home might have looked like. There are few remaining signs of Jewish culture. After the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492, Christians moved in and either destroyed the Jewish homes or built new houses on top of them. (This explains why many of the houses are three stories high, startlingly tall for medieval dwellings.) There's a tiny oil lamp, a mezuza and photographs of mikvahs, and Jewish baths.

Amongst all the traditional buildings and ancient history that Girona is crisscrossed with, a red crisscrossed bridge designed by Gustav Eiffel as a prelude to his Eiffel Tower in Paris nods at modernism here. It stands out on the river Onyar that Girona is situated on.Walking along the Barri Vell, Old Town you can't skip noticing eye-popping colorful houses mirrored and reflected on the surface of River Onyar.
I was lucky to be here at the time when this city celebrates the festival of flowers. Our reward at the end of the day was a camera full of pretty memories. 
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Figueres and Dali

5/16/2015

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An  hour and half  on a high speed train from Barcelona is the town of Figueres.  This is where the eccentric genius Salvador Dali was born (1904) and buried (1989). The train travels along the foothills of mighty Pyrenees mountain and the journey is amazingly scenic.As we walked towards the Dali museum we passed an early morning Food Mercato- an open air market where vendors were selling fresh fruits and veggies. Bought some fresh apples and oranges to enjoy as snack later on. Walking little bit further down the street came across a flea / antique market. After browsing at some interesting wares, I realized I can't put my camera away. Came across a funky hotel with cows, bugs bunny and a jester decorating the facade. It did put a smile on my face.As you walk from the train station to Dali's museum on La Rambla you come across " face of Dali" which is a tribute to the famous artist of this town. It is a face of Dali that appears stretched out and distorted when seen flat on the ground but appears normal when viewed in a convex mirror next to it.

The museum building is itself a piece of quirkiness, surreal as the artist was. I was not prepared for this. Apparently, Dali designed it himself in the last years of his life.The outside walls have small sculptures of golden bread buns and golden giant eggs. At the entrance bought tickets for the Dali museum where he lived and now it mainly houses his paintings and sculptures and his jewelry museum is right next door. As soon as you enter the main museum along the walls are golden mannequins and the room is enclosed by a giant glass sphere. All around you is some piece of art to be noticed.Every nook and cranny is filled with Dali's works.

The first striking piece is a black Cadillac with a grotesque looking lady on it . When you peer inside of the broken glass you see a dead-like lady in the back and a guy in the drivers seat. On top of all this is an upside down boat dripping with water.The Cadillac in "Car-Naval" plays a tune for your coin, adding another dimension to the artwork.

As you enter the building there is a large painting done by Dali. It looks like several figures of Venus de Milo, but when you squint your eyes the painting metamorphoses into the face of Abraham Lincoln. If you scrutinize it more closely you can see his wife Gala in it.

The museum is a 5 stories in a circular building. It is very difficult to exit this place, perhaps that's what Dali wanted.You land in a souvenir shop, of course.

The famous "Marilyn Monroe " interactive piece is brilliantly insane. It is absolutely wild. It looks cool in photos, but to grasp the scale of this famous visage of apartment furniture you have to experience it.The lens you look through is suspended underneath a dead camel.Check out the pictures.

As you move through each floor of the museum you realize that Dali worked in many mediums and styles .In much of Renaissance art, you once again crane your neck to take in a scene on the ceiling . This time though it is not Biblical or heavenly, but the feet of Dali and Gala hanging down from the sky as if landing down after a fun skydiving adventure.

A fun stairway in the museum is very Dali- esque. It is a mirror image as are also some of his drawings.

His other works of art are equally interesting. Dali used a technique called "paranoic-critical method".Check out the picture of a woman reading a piece of paper on a profile of an old man with a long beard in one image.In such works he explored the mind's ability to perceive links between things that are not rationally linked. For example , in the dark, a trashcan can appear as a monster in a dark alley. Well, Dali didn't have to go far to enter a paranoid state. It is said he was born exactly 9 months after his older brother,  who was named Salvador died of gastroenteritis. He was named after him. At age 5 he was taken to his grave and told that he was an incarnation of his brother, a concept that he came to believe. Subsequently,  Dali found it difficult to sleep and could dose only if he imagined himself laying in a coffin, dying. His "demons" certainly emerge in his art. Many experts are of the opinion the Dali's works are autobiographical. He was a narcissist.

Surrealism was actually a cultural movement in 1920's where people discussed psychology and social revolutions. But later visual arts became a medium to deliver surrealist messages to public and Dali mastered it and did it with panache and humor. He actually appeared for a press conference in New York dressed up in a scuba diving suit.

At his jewelry museum there are some very unique, very well designed and well crafted pieces. A heap of golden skulls in emerald and amethyst.  A heart in rubies, that actually beats and wings in diamonds that flap.

Other pieces are surreal in their own way, like an elephant on long mosquito legs, flower petals with hands at the ends.This was an amazing one of it's kind collection.

In his long career , he was a sculpture, involved in printmaking , fashion, writing, advertising and also film-making .His flamboyance certainly permeates through the entire Dali museum.His works definitely evoke emotions from a viewer, which could be of delight or disgust, which I think is always an intention of a true artist.

Some Dali facts:
- His famous upturned, waxed mustache that became his trademark was inspired by Diego Velasquez,  a 17th century Spanish master painter.

- He had a keen interest in natural science and mathematics. In 1950's he painted his subjects with rhinoceros horn shapes which signified divine geometry because Dali figured that horns grow in logarithmic spiral.

- He was also fascinated by DNA and tesseract - a 4 dimensional cube.

- He worked with Alfred Hitchcock on the movie" Spellbound" on a dream sequence,  in which he heavily delves into themes of psychoanalysis.  Dali created a dream like quality to the film which depicted that a repressed experience can directly trigger a neurosis.

- He paid homage to Newton in creating a sculpture that depicts an open torso and a suspended heart to signify " open- heartedness" and an open head indicating " open- mindedness-  two  qualities important for scientific discovery and human endeavors.

At the souvenir shop had to buy the famous Dali mustache:)
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Mallorca - Spain

5/14/2015

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On landing in this largest baleric island I thought it seemed like a regular city. I was beginning to get disappointed. But as soon as the La Seu Palma Cathedral came into sight, I realized that the real Mallorca lies along the coastline and it's alleyways.The Romans, Byzantines, the Moors and the Catalans, all fell in love with this city and settled here in the past 2000 years adding to each layer of its history and culture. Tennis fans will be interested in knowing that it is a birthplace of Rafa Nadal.

Palma Cathedral is an enormous church,  rising out along the coastline of the Baleric Sea. Around it horse carriages are ready to take you for a stroll along the coastline. This area is also popular with bicycling enthusiast's , who ride along the coast. When you enter the Cathedral you are stunned by three things- it's immense-ness, it's beauty- it is more contemporary than traditional because Gaudi was here, and it's serenity.The audio guide was very helpful in providing commentary about each apse, the saints and other biblical stories. Gaudi was commissioned in 1901 to transform the church, he removed the columns in the middle, added metal chandeliers around them and the stained glass windows are his signature style. All this lend more light and space inside the church. It is very beautiful.

Behind the cathedral are narrow cobblestone streets lined with souvenir stores selling Mallorcan pearls, locally made cotton dresses, straw baskets and hats. Walked through the Bany's Arab ( Arab Baths) which is a tiny garden with fountains and baths, a remnant of the Moorish culture that existed here between 18-19th century.The alleys have preserved the past in the old palaces with majestic wooden doors and flower dressed balconies.

Heading towards the coastline, Passieg Maritime, came across an open air market  where hawkers had set up eyecatching displays of their wares- breads, olives, cheeses, jewelry,  scarves and much more.This waterside promenade has windmills and is a bikers delight.

As you leave this area and walk towards the city, a tree lined fancy street- Passieg de Borne, which has come to be known as the "Golden Mile" is a contrast to the cities medieval-ness. It is a luxury shopping street lined with high end stores such as Rolex, Louis Vuitton, Hugo Boss, Caroline Herrera, Versace, Twin set, Mulberry, Rialto Living and others making it a designer's street. Spotted a very sad looking "Minnie Mouse" walking along and then resting her tired feet as I sat people watching.

It was now time to head to the airport to catch the flight back to Barcelona. So we started gravitating towards it, passing through Placa Major, where street performers and artists were vying for your attention as well as your Euros. Had a great day at this awesome island.
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Food Markets of Barcelona

5/13/2015

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It is a busy, vibrant and a sensory environment, with the cries of the stall owners and the haggling of the customers.The sights, the smells, the sounds and the hustle and a bustle, and the freshest of foods. It is a colorful bonanza of exotic fresh fruits, dried and candied, heaps of herbs and spices, piles and piles of irresistible chocolate and candy, that works as a magnet for kids and adults alike.The fish so fresh that it is still flapping on ice. And quite a variety of seafood- octopus, white bait,  crab claws, lobsters, clams, mussels. Cured meat on skewers,  cured meat wraps, stuffed breads,  interesting burritos. Dried hams or Jamon as it is known here. Specialists were selling a variety of olives, cheeses, legume salads and eggs.There are lively seafood restaurants,  street food stands, refreshing freshly squeezed fruit juice stands, selling ready made fruit jars and smoothies to tourists to be fully energized for a busy day. And of course the Tapas and Sangria bars are all around.

Mercat de Sant Josep / La Boqueria is Barcelona's best known food market located on La Rambla.

Another market that we came across was on our way to Arc de Triomf. It is Santa Catrina market in the Born / Ribera area of the Old city. It showcases a new and modern market with a recent renovation.The colorful roof of this building is designed by Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue.

Whether you are planning a fine meal or a picnic or simply taking a look, it is a memorable experience. The colorful display of foods is like an art work. Certainly can take some great pictures and buy some great good here.It is as if the colors, sounds, smells and flavors have been cooked together. You just savour it all.

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Athens - Democracy, Drama & Philosophy

5/12/2015

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The great thing about Athens is that you don't have to venture far from the city in order to enjoy it. All the ancient treasures of history, art and culture are smack down right in the city . Being a peninsula, it is surrounded by the Aegean Sea, the Gulf of Evoikos, the Saronic Gulf & the Gulf of Corinth.  The city is embraced by the mountains , Mt. Pendeli & Mt Parnassus to the north, Mt Hymettus to the east & Mt Egaleo to the west. And of course the Mediterranean climate offers beautiful sunshine an average of 250 days.

Walking past the Acropolis, Parthenon, Temple of Olympian Zeus and the ancient Angora I realized how similar Athens is to Rome. I had been to Rome three years ago and the similarities between the two in terms of architecture is obvious. After all, the Roman empire was influenced by the classical Greek culture. The ruins in Athens are 7000 years old.

Greece is a cradle of western civilization. Everywhere you turn, you will find ruins that are thousands of years old. If you love art, history or archeology,  you'll love Greece. 

At the Acropolis I soaked up on the gentle peace and the ancientness of the place which has seen life inhabited as far as the 4th millenium BC. From here you can look out at the sea (so blue and you now know why it's called the Aegean Sea) and down on the city, with the ancient Agora and Plaka hugging it's foothill. Acropolis means "city on a hill". As you look at this architectural wonder you are struck by the scale of this place steeped in history as you walk into the foot steps of the ancient Greeks . It's location definitely makes it the crowning glory of Athens. It stands above the city of Athens, an ancient citadel with some of the most significant monuments of global civilization. You can visit the holy places of Plato, Pericles and Aristotle, where democracy and philosophy were born.

Parthenon - It is the central and the largest of the Acropolis temples and is dedicated to Athena, the patron of the city. There are a total of 50 columns still remaining. It is now a UNESCO world heritage site. Since it has been built, the Parthenon has been used as a temple, a church, as a fortress and a gun powder storage facility. It was destroyed in a fire, in an explosion in 1687 and then looted by invaders. Standing in front of this monument I felt transported into ancient Greece. The feeling was very surreal. 

Temple of Dionysos - is on the southern slope of the Acropolis and a site of two performance venues. The wide semi circle of audience seats is cut out of natural rocks and can seat about 5500 people. This large amphitheater was the first to host the plays of significant ancient tragic and comic playwrights such as Aeschylus,  Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes.

Plaka - is the most enchanting neighborhoods you can visit in Athens. It is a charming and picturesque neighborhood at the foot of the Acropolis constructed on the same site where once ancient greeks lived. Many houses have whitewashed walls, red tile roofs with balconies dripping with flower boxes full of bougainvillea . Plaka is a labyrinth of narrow lanes lined with beautiful buildings that are shopping centers or restaurants. Wandering through the streets here was fascinating and relaxing.

Acropolis Museum- is ultra modern, bright and state of the art museum, one stop to learn all you can about the Greek history. The museum covers 25,000 meter square on four floors and exhibits 4000 pieces of many archeological finds and treasures from all over Greece.

Hadrian's arch- was erected in 2nd century AD in honor of Roman emperor Hadrian.

National Historical Museum - This building used to be a residence of King Otto of Greece in 1813, then it was the Greek Parliament and now a National Museum. It houses artifacts from 1453 (fall of Constantinople to the Ottomans) to 1940. Also on display are traditional costumes, flags, medals, furniture and memorablia that belonged to historical figures. There is also a huge art collection by various Greek and foreign artists.

Monastiraki a.k.a monastery - Is not a monastery (however, there are 550 monastries all over Greece) but a neighborhood in the oldest part of the city. It is popular for its shops and open- bazaar like shops. Each narrow street that leads off the Monastiraki Square is lined with eclectic stores, so interesting you want to step into each one of them. You can find for sale WWII memorablia, chess sets, brass and copper pans to Mickey Mouse clock and some real antiques, chandeliers,  clothing,  souvenirs etc.. There is a jumbled collection of everything. The best part is the flea market where you could rub shoulders with the locals.

Roman Agora - This was a social and political center of the city and was funded by Julius Caesar and Emperor Augustus. Among the buildings that are here remaining is what was  the law court, public toilets and Temple. There are sculptures of the eight gods of winds.

Ancient Agora or "the gathering place" - This was probably where people gathered to hear philosophers propound their views, to be entertained or to conduct politics. There are 34 Doric columns supporting a roof which has partially survived.

Temple of Hephaestus - Is the first Athenian temple made of marble. It is enclosed on three sides and from the fourth side is an opening that allows the sun to shine on the shrine. It has a wooden ceiling with terracotta roof tiles.

Syntagma Square - The most impressive building here is the Greek Parliament, again this used to be a Royal Palace. It is in this square where leaders give speeches and demonstrations and rallies are held with Greece being in such economic upheaval. The changing of the guards takes place here with all the pomp and ceremony. This large square has beautiful trees such as cypress, oleander and orange trees. At the center of the square is a beautiful marble fountain. Nearby is the metro station , supposedly the most impressive in  the world. It is a marriage between high tech transport and archeology. There are Jacaranda trees, which are not native to Greece that line the road from Zappion, an exhibition and convention center with beautiful garden around it. 

National Archeological Museum - Largest collection of archeological findings from Greece have been given home here. It has five large permanent collections.The Prehistoric collection, Neolithic, Cycladic and Mycenaean as well as pieces from a prehistoric settlement in Thera. There is a wide array of exhibits ranging from gold jewelry, funeral masks, crystal and alabaster, vases, pottery, metal statues, figurines in bronze from the Middle Bronze age. The whole experience is absolutely enriching.

Mount Lycabettus - The story goes that the Godess Athena was carrying a rock to place on the Acropolis to make it even higher and accidently dropped it when she was distracted by two black birds bearing bad news. The dropped rock became Mount Lycabettus. It is about 300 meters  high and provides an amazing sweeping view of the city. A funicular ride takes you to the top in 20 minutes if you are not a hiker. At the summit is a Chapel of George and a restaurant and observation deck.

Vouliagmeni Lake - Is a spectacular natural attraction with stunning rocky landscapes surrounding it. It has clear , tranquil,  turquoise blue thermal waters. 

Shopping for memories- Pandrossou street along with its adjoining roads is considered one of the oldest market streets of the city. It has hundreds of stores selling jewelry, leather goods, antique items, clothing, local products such as wines, cheeses, olive oils , soaps, hand creams. Art galleries , cafés and restaurants line the streets.  It is a warm neighborhood , a pulsing nucleus of Greek cultural tradition,  modern and old.

You make unique discoveries on a walk from Monastiraki to Psyrri. Small workshops are what you come across, artists creating hand- sewn straw hats, handcrafted traditional instruments such as the baglamas made of orange tree wood and engraved lyres that will definitely drive you into Greek folklore music. You can also watch leather sandals being made in a shop.

Taste of Greece - God Dionyssos blessed Greece with a special type of soil to cultivate grapes for making the best wine. Greek vineyards produce a wide variety of wines to savour.

 Stores had a variety of Olive oils to be used as food, in dermatology to relieve and revitalize the skin, as soaps, as olivewood jewelry , as excellent woodcarvings created by local artists.

Variety of spices, pure honey, herbs like mountain tea and oregano and nuts especially pistachios line the shelves.

Had to try some authentic Greek food. I relished the tzatziki,  souvlaki , moussaka and the gyros, all very popular street foods. Tried some anise flavored Ouzo and Raki with honey both locally brewed.

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Masterpieces in Aerosol

5/11/2015

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There is tons of Graffiti, I mean literally a lot of it that covers the walls of the buildings, shutters of the shops, garage doors, school yards, metro lines, on the metro train, almost any blank walls in certain parts of Athens.The word "Graffiti" of course comes from the Greek.

As you walk through the city center you can be overwhelmed with the cacophony of brightly colored graphics.One of the locals suggested I should take a walk around the Exarchia district. It is a regular neighborhood with flats, shops, bakeries, cafés, schools, business buildings. However, the graffiti is spilling off the walls and seems like locals don't notices it. People seem to ignore it or not care at all. A local very popular department store chain had in fact used graffiti styled wall decorations. I asked a lady who lived in that neighborhood as to what she thought about it. She said she appreciated the ones that were artistic but not the ones that were anarchistic or the ones that damaged properties.

Well, when you have seen a few you can figure out which artist has made which graffiti.Mostly one piece of street art has no relationship to the next. There are a few pieces of such quality that will make you wonder if perhaps it could adorn the walls of a gallery.

All the more interesting , I found out that some of these graffiti is commissioned by the municipality.As is in Miami and Toronto .In a conversation with a street artist who was a student at the local art school, I learnt that street art is different from graffiti.Graffiti depicts defiance and separateness and includes as a central component letters that are artistically presented, whereas street art involves an image.The style and technique of a graffiti could also be unique to an artist. Basically, street art is graffiti with a college degree.

When you see graffiti sprayed on public places you probably assume that people in that area have no pride in it's surroundings or environment.You might think those running the place have lost control and also perhaps where the youngsters feel lost or alienated. In fact, Greece is going through a tough time in it's history in terms of economics. People are using street art to protest, demonstrate, express and share their angst and as defiance.

I discovered this interesting side of Athens on my way to the Acropolis and exploring the neighborhood of Exarchia and realized that Athenians embrace everything about their culture , present or past in the most unapologetic way.
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